To Open or not to Open - the Muzzle…?
That is the question!

I love controversial subjects due to the inherent passionate volatility among divers who believe one way or the other so strongly that you can see the veins in their neck ready to pop when you disagree with them, yet a simple comment like, both open muzzles and closed muzzles are good because it all depends on each persons needs; the steam billows as the molten metal is cooled in a vat of water between the ears of the arguing individuals.

If someone tells you that one product/brand is better than another product/brand, ask them WHY? If you read it in a magazine or see it on TV does that mean it’s true??? NO! So again, ask WHY?!? THIS article itself could be totally false, so as you read this article be asking yourself WHY to each point that is made.

So the Europeans have “tested and proven” the theory that “a spear shaft shoots more accurately when the Rubber Bands fire in alignment with the spear shaft,” in conjunction, utilizing the law of “least resistance.” Therein, all Euro guns are designed with complex geometric angles concerning just about everything from ergonomic handles and grips to muzzle hydro dynamics and appropriate ratios for everything in between. All of this quality and expensive R&D makes for the best spear guns on the planet. OH REALLY?!?! WHY?

It’s amazing what the human eye can see… that is, if the eye chooses to see what is truly there. I encourage everyone to look at the top of any used stock Euro gun and see if you can find a series of little scratches on the top of the barrel. Of course the older the gun is the more scratches you will see. Naturally, you will be asking what are these scratches from? These scratches appear for several reasons.

Shaft Support

Most stock Euro gun shafts contact the spear gun barrel with a very limited amount of spear shaft surface-area. The spear shaft, when loaded into the trigger mechanism, contacts the trigger mechanism, the muzzle and sometimes a “shaft guide” which often times is a movable “slide” that is about one (1) inch in length. Example: A 100cm shaft with a total number of contacts/supports/shaft guides equaling approx. 10cm’s of support. A graduate of scholastic endeavors might easily explain that one law of physics says, “efficiency follows the path of least resistance.” Translation… if the spear shaft isn’t supported the entire length of the shaft than it will lesson the surface area upon which resistance will occur when the spear shaft is fired and therefore the result will be greater speed and range.

The problem with this specific “law of physics” and Spearfishing is that there is likely more than one law and numerous factors at play at any given time like ergonomics, comfort, ease of use, economic limitations, market validity, visual appeal etc. so we may need to take a broader look at the overall picture if one’s intention is to design the “best” product. For a speargun, the projectile needs to have an appropriate amount of “mass” for “best” efficiency and to maximize inertia for the intended user and desired use. Inertia should be considered as simply, an object in motion and its ability to stay in motion. Most Euro gun designs, in their stock form, are set up to fire a single, in-line, high modulus rubber band whose metal wishbone sits into a grooved slot milled into a relatively thin and light weight 6.5mm/1/4 inch spear shaft and a single wrap of shooting line.

Euro-Gun Philosophy #1: Two threaded rubber bands screw into the muzzle so as to fire at a most efficient in-line direction. The metal articulated wishbone sits into the spear shaft creating an almost perfectly central pull therefore distributing the band inertia evenly through the spear shaft.

The Reality of the Philosophy:

1. Due to the design of the muzzle, the line-of-sight is interrupted immediately before the shot. It is important that the line-of-sight be uninterrupted to achieve the most accurate shot possible to limit simply injuring fish, damaging equipment and damaging reef.
2. Reloading can be tricky due to the requirement to “thread the needle” and feed the spear shaft through the small hole in the extreme front of the muzzle, especially in a critical situation and/or using a gun greater than 100cm.
3. Due to the closed-muzzle design, a metal articulated wishbone is used to connect the band to the shaft when the band is cocked in the loaded and ready position. It is well known that the wishbone can slip out of the grooved shaft occasionally and hit the diver’s hand, which can inflict fairly serious injury to the finger(s).
4. The Euro spear shaft does not utilize a slide ring to center and hold the spear shaft in place nor does it utilize the shooting line to hold the shaft in place so “shaft clatter” can be heard when the gun is turned quickly to track a fast moving fish.
5. The idea of the level retraction of the in-line band reduces adverse directional pull known as “recoil.” But simply due to current designs, where the handle resides on the bottom side of a speargun (or even a firearm), recoil is naturally going to be offset in the opposite direction. Example: If somehow someone designed a speargun with the handle on TOP of a speargun (or firearm) the opposing recoil would force the muzzle downward rather than upward as is now. BUT, recoil is ALSO measured by ratios like:

   the weight of the gun - to - the strength of the band(s) - to - the weight of the shaft - to - the length of the band stretch etc.

   So, the concept of the in-line band pull should be more accurately labeled as reducing “upward recoil,” which is only PART of the true description and causes of recoil.

6. The Euro muzzle design’s THEORY enables a speargun to utilize the physics law of “least resistance.” But in reality, a simple, readily available, full-length track can be easily installed for minimal amount cost and effort. And the benefits of a full-length track for firing and reloading the speargun quickly and easily FAR outweigh the “benefits” of the “law of least resistance.”

7. Another concept of the “closed muzzle” design is so the band(s) will not over-correct itself, once fired, and retract over the muzzle, therefore eliminating the possibility of the shooting line becoming entangled in the rubber band. This is about the only theory I agree with thus far that actually makes a difference. If and when a speargun is set up in such a way that the bands can easily flip over the muzzle and end up on the bottom side of the speargun before all the shooting line has the time to fully extend, the slacked line can bind with the slung rubber bands. The screwed-in Euro style rubber bands are unable to end up on the bottom of the gun, due to the design of the muzzle, eliminating this problem.

8. Fast reloading when utilizing the single rubber band and one wrap of shooting line. Since the Euro bands are forced into position by design, a diver can always rely on the bands ending up in exactly the same position without having to visually check to see that the band is in place. Plus, with the combination of one band and only one wrap of line, the time to reload is roughly cut in half when having to load two bands and two wraps of line.

9. It is a good thing when maintenance on any product we use is simplified. Easy access rubber band. One does not have to remove the spear shaft to add or remove the stock rubber band. By not having to remove the spear shaft to add and remove the rubber band cuts down on the possibilities of having to repair the head liner in your car, replace the picture on the wall that you knocked down or stabbing your dive partner in the eye.
10. Well, if the Euro-Gun philosophy were true than where do the scratches on the top of the barrel come from? Answer (finally), the simple weight of the shaft is enough to weight down the band’s extended fulcrum point and cause the rear of the shaft to drag along the barrel as is exits the gun.
11. An observer will also note the small “dings” or “nicks” on the shaft guide. The reason for this is when the band is fired, the plastic threaded sleeve on the rubber band, which secures the wishbone to the band, will hit the shaft guide. Additional proof of this is the shaft guide will continuously and “mysteriously” end up toward the front of the speargun, that is, after it has been fired a few times and the band-sleeve hits the shaft guide on the way up.
12. Considering how meticulous the Euro’s “study” each aspect of the spearguns they design, have you ever noticed the threaded rubber bands sold by many manufacturers or are supplied with their guns are different lengths, sometimes different thickness and even different strengths? WHY? I have NO IDEA!
13. One major Euro gun manufacturer even claims a “200% stretch rubber is better than the regular 300% stretch based on the fact the 200% stretch bands are harder to stretch. That is about as logical as if they told you to cut your spear gun in half so it will have more range! How stupid do these sales people or manufacturers think we are?!?!
14. Loading one band is faster than loading two. Well, yes that is true. But often times pulling a 20mm (3/4”) high-modulus rubber band, that many Euro guns come with, can be very difficult to say the least. Consider the source, the guns are made in Europe, where typically speaking, the water is reasonably cold and therefore a wetsuit is necessary. But here in Hawaii, where the water is warm and many people don’t use a wet suit and don’t need one, so chest loading these guns can be a pain… Literally! Also, a 20mm band has approximately 140 lbs. of pull strength so by distributing the strength over two 9/16 dia. with approx. 90 lbs. of pull strength the two rubber bands can give a diver a choice of the amount of power to pull back for each specific fish requirement. Plus, the two 9/16 dia. Bands add up to 180 lbs. of pull strength so a little added power is rarely a bad thing when hunting a larger or skittish fish species.

So, the BIG question…what do you gain by opening the muzzle???

1. A clear line of sight down the spear shaft. This “plus” alone is priceless. Due to the unobstructed view down the spear shaft a diver can see anything that might compromise the shot and fix it before the shot is taken. Also, the ability to sight-in perfectly and pick the exact spot where the shot should be placed is important. The ability to view the spear shaft to look for bends and imperfections in the shaft is much easier with the open muzzle. There are more leniencies in the type or style of shooting line and/or crimp used to secure the shaft to the gun due to the fact the line or crimp could hit a closed muzzle when fired.
2. As stated before, the metal articulated wishbones most Euro guns come with are infamous for slipping out of the shaft’s grooves, which often result in hitting the user’s fingers. Riffe makes an after market Euro shaft measuring 17/64” diameter and made with 17-4 Hardened, Stainless, Spring Steel that utilizes a combination of a stubby raised tabs above a slightly grooved area for metal or “line” type wishbones.
3. Get an after market spear shaft that won’t break right where the grooved notches are. Many divers complain that their spear shafts break right at the groove, which is in the rear of the shaft, after shooting into a rock where the pressure is focused on the front of the spear shaft. I can only give an educated guess as to why these “grooved” type spear shafts break at the groove in the rear of the shaft instead of the front hole where the barb’s rivet lives. My guess is the reverb travels through the shaft and affects the “weakest point.” Or the spear shaft becomes stuck/lodged in the rock and is pulled/tugged on by the diver from above to try and dislodge the shaft without making the effort to swim all the way to the bottom and dislodge the shaft by hand. This action will put all the energy into the rear of the shaft causing the “weakest point” to give. This pulling/tugging by the diver is unrelated to the shot itself.
4. You can use Riffe rubber bands with a “soft” or “line” wishbone. The soft wishbones are much more quiet due to the fact that metal-on-metal sound travels further and faster than line-on-metal sound, or lack there of. Plus, and a HUGE plus, is that the soft wishbones can’t and won’t cut your finger off like the metal ones almost do. Metal fatigues as it is bent back and forth but gives very little warning before it breaks. The soft wishbones will begin to fray and show signs of weakening well before they actually break; and even if they break, they still won’t hurt you like the metal ones do.
5. You can make your own bands to save a ton of money over the expensive Euro bands. Riffe or line types of bands are found almost everywhere spearfishing products are found so if you are ever in a pinch and didn’t plan a trip carefully or whatever, you can more than likely find something to get by. On the other hand, the Euro bands are, for whatever reason(s), hard to find the right threading, diameter and/or length of rubber. The best part about the soft wishbone bands is that you can make your own, with a little practice, which can save you some money and/or get you out of a tight spot. Conversely, if a Euro band breaks, you need a special machine to put it back together, or just buy a new band… if you can find a pair.
6. In a pinch, you can use just about any available rubber bands rather than the specific Euro manufacturer’s band. With the after-market Euro shafts that have raised tabs, a line or metal wishbone will work, so if you can only find the metal wishbone style bands available than you can still go diving without any worries and simply change back to the soft wishbone bands when available.

The summary of all this gibberish is that each Euro manufacturer has what they consider an “entry, average and advanced level” of diving equipment; in particular, the speargun. The largest market is naturally going to gravitate toward the “average level” of gun because it is most often the best “value.” However, most manufacturers provide only the bare necessities to keep their production costs down and therefore to keep the cost down to the customer.

Due to production costs it is inconceivable to make an average speargun, at a retail cost of approx. $150.00 - $200.00 US Dollars, “perfect” by any standards. Therefore, the absolute “laws of physics” CAN’T apply because of these inherent imperfections. A “perfect” gun would have to made by a “perfect person” using a “perfect machine” and “perfect materials.” So, it is not to say these styles of guns are not good otherwise why do so many people embrace them as the “Holy Grail” of spearguns? My point is, with some tweaking to these relatively inexpensive guns they can shoot quieter, further, safer and be much easier to use overall.

Learn everything you can about your sport. The more knowledge you have the better diver you will become. Keep an open mind and keep it real at the same time. Understand that everybody’s “needs” are not necessarily the same; nevertheless, close similarities should occur when diving in similar conditions.